THE DELECTABLE WORLD OF JEUNES RESTAURATEURS PASSION STORIES First off, a big thank-you to all our guests who have been loyal to us for so many years. Likewise, our gratitude goes out to all the businesses, employees, and partners whose passion and dedication are the pillars of our success story. No. 2 JRE.AT SPRING/SUMMER 2024 Today, however, rather than dwelling on the past, I prefer to look forward, with anticipation for the future. According to our bylaws, the “J” in JRE stands for the age of the business owners. But let’s be honest, not all of us are that young anymore. That said, it’s time to give this letter a new meaning in 2024. We, the JRE, made up of 43 unique businesses, can be proud of what we’ve achieved over the past 20 years. At the same time, we are aware that we need to carry this spirit into the future so as to successfully meet all upcoming challenges. In order to advance Austrian cuisine, in 2024 we need more than our past successes, more than the words printed here. New approaches, new answers to the big questions JRE-AUSTRIA 20 YEARS How top agricultural products serve as the basis for high-quality Alpine Austrian cuisine. Why the whole culinary world is the “oyster” for employees of Austria’s JRE restaurants. Why Austria is this year’s stage for fantastic celebrations and what you absolutely should not miss. SUCCESS STORY CAREER DATES Farmer & Chef Network Events 2024 A young spirit and passion for all things epicurean: the 43 Austrian JRE restaurants are celebrating their 20th anniversary in 2024 with numerous events. of our time, and above all, all-consuming commitment are essential. So, the “J” in JRE now acquires a new meaning: Young Spirit. This enables us to stay in tune with the times and place topics like innovation, sustainability, digitalization, and especially equality at the top of our agenda. Because our mission is clear: to continue being the No.1 address for good news from Austrian gastronomy. I am convinced that we can achieve this together. True to our motto “Never-Ending Passion”, welcoming our guests and giving them an unforgettable culinary pampering. Sincerely, Richard Rauch President JRE-Austria Page 12 Page 14 Page 10 » PROUD OF THE PAST, EXCITED FOR THE FUTURE – HERE’S TO THE NEXT 20 YEARS « Richard Rauch President JRE-Austria All of this in the accustomed JRE manner: top quality, but casual, fun, and relaxed. Party atmosphere included. With a wine & delicacies market for tastings and all sorts of culinary surprises. A day for the history books of Austrian top gastronomy, and an absolute must for culinary connoisseurs. All-inclusive tickets for the full day’s program (11 AM to 8 PM) are available for €250 from all member businesses, or for €350 at the door and from Ö-Ticket. JRE ANNIVERSARY IN GRAFENEGG GRAND CELEBRATION MARKING 20 YEARS OF JRE-AUSTRIA: On June 30, 2024, the park and Auditorium of fairytale Schloss Grafenegg in Lower Austria will become the stage for a fantastic, all-day gala event featuring art, music, and the finest in epicurean enjoyment. Photo: Franz Atteneder The perfect travel companion for lovers of fine dining. Available (German only) at every JRE restaurant or order online for free at www.jre-guide.at or here: Photo: Joerg Lehmann JRE-GUIDE 2024 ENGLISH EDITION
PASSION STORIES No. 2 2 JRE’s guiding principle is to support innovative top gastronomy, promote creative chefs and restau- rateurs and, as a unique inter- national network dedicated to exceptional quality, set trends in European cuisine. was the impressive charity donation from JRE-Austria to the Ö3-Wundertüte radio team in 2023, collected during the annual JRE Chef’s Roulette. 12 members sit on the international JRE board, with Daniel Lehmann from Switzerland serving as President. CEO of the business management division based in the Netherlands is former Michelin-starred chef Hans van Manen. € 30,630 Membre d’Honneur is the prestigious title awarded to JRE members upon reaching their 50th birthday. Whilst no longer having voting rights, their passionate ties to the association remain forever. 158 Gault-Millau toques are impressive testimony to the quality of the 43 Austrian JREs, some of whom also run equally acclaimed inns alongside their gourmet restaurants. This is further complemented by 145 Falstaff forks and 132 A la Carte stars. The association admits only those chefs and restaurateurs who stand for the highest quality and are not older than 40 years of age at the time of joining – based upon stringent, anonymous reviews. of the historic Rialto Towers in Melbourne, Australian celebrity chef Shannon Bennett creates a JRE vibe at the other end of the world. in 2024 connects around 400 restaurants in 16 countries, which, with their more than 7,000 employees, collectively excite up to 14,000 diners daily. The correct English pronunciation is basically “j-uhh-n rest-o-ra-teurs” or just say the three English letters “j-r-e”. 2013 Salzburg, with its Festival Hall, Gwandhaus, Hangar 7, and Carpe Diem Bar-Restaurant, becomes the spectacular stage for the first European Congress in Austria. 2004 Josef Floh, the “Blumentritt-Sisters” Christa & Ulli, Otto Bayer, and Simon Taxacher found JRE-Austria. The birth of the French “Jeunes Restaurateurs” in Paris, expanding to a Europe-wide umbrella organization in the late 1980s. 50 years of JRE and founded in Paris – the perfect occasion to celebrate this year’s European Congress on April 7/8 in the French metropolis, promising unsurpassed culinary enjoyment! 1974 ON THE 55TH FLOOR SIMPLY SCAN AND DIVE INTO THE WORLD OF EUROPE’S BEST RESTAURANTS. Photo: Chris Molloy Photo: Joerg Lehmann Photo: istock/Filed Image Photo: Martin Krachler
PASSION STORIES No. 2 It all began with a longing. Specifically, “a longing for allies and the desire to create and shape something together,” recalls Josef Floh (Der Floh, Langenlebarn) about the founding of the JRE association 20 years ago. A crucial detail that would shape the group’s future came about by chance. The first four founding members were friends: “We and Josef Floh have known each other since childhood,” describes charter “matriarch” Christa Hollerer (Zum Blumentritt, St. Aegyd). “Having leased the restaurant at the Kössen golf course in Tyrol, my sister Ulli and I also became friends with Simon Taxacher and Otto Bayer (now at Café Balthasar in Vienna).” ROOTED IN FRIENDSHIP This quartet was welcomed into the international JRE family in 2004 in Verona. At home, it was more challenging at first, “since we still had no partners on board.” The strength to continue came from European networking: “It wasn’t until the international congress in Dresden that we first realized what it means to be a member of JRE,” says Christa Hollerer, “and that energy, well, it was just brilliant.” Josef Floh also remembers that spirit of the early years: “In 2008, Ulli Hollerer and I were completely alone on the first evening of the JRE Congress in Florence. But our Swiss colleagues kindly invited us to their table” – a foretaste of the closeness within the community. The membership made a significant leap forward under the leadership of Andreas Döllerer (Döllerers Genusswelten, Golling) and Thomas Dorfer (Landhaus Bacher, Mautern). “In 2007, there were seven of us in Austria, four of whom were founding members,” says Dorfer. Andreas Döllerer goes on to add, “When I stepped down as president in 2020, we were already 38.” More important than the raw numbers is the group’s harmony, about which JRE founder Christa Hollerer remarks, “We meet twice a year, and you can clearly tell how much everyone looks forward to seeing each other, exchanging ideas, and of course, simply having a good time.” QUALITY CULINARY EXPERIENCES The spirit of the early days, as evoked by Hollerer and Floh – friends elevating the level of local cuisine collectively – still shapes the group’s interactions today. “The chemistry has to be 3 Photo: Peter C. Mayr 20 YEARS OF JEUNES RESTAURATEURS AUSTRIA Heading into the future with endless passion: the board of JRE-Austria including Richard Rauch (pictured center, President) and – from left to right – Klemens Schraml (Sustainability Officer and Secretary), Stefan Eder (EU Delegate), Vitus Winkler (Vice-President), Michael Kolm (Media & Social Media), and not pictured, Lukas Kienbauer (Finance). Text: Roland Graf What started in 2004 as an idea amongst a handful of friends has grown into a tight-knit community known to gourmets as the national spearhead of fine dining. A success story that is far from over.
4 is also evident at Miele. “The inspiring partnership with the elite of innovative top chefs,” as Sandra Kolleth, CEO, describes it, has created tangible benefits – for Austria’s gourmets, but also the broader agricultural community. Kolleth goes on to list joint ventures including development of revolutionary cooking technologies, like the Dialog oven, the designation of natural meadows for the ‘BEESandAPPLE’ project, and creative cooking sessions for avid gourmets at the Miele Experience Centers. It seems far from a coincidence that 2024 marks, not only a jubilee year for JRE, but also Miele’s 125th anniversary. THE BENEFITS OF COLLABORATION The fact that Austrian top chefs are also making their mark internationally is confirmed by Hans van Manen, CEO of “Jeunes Restaurateurs.” The Dutchman vividly remembers “the successful hosting of an international conference in Salzburg in 2013, which solidified the Austrian chapter’s position as a committed group at the highest level.” The last 20 years, from his own profound perspective, have not only significantly impacted chef and restaurant standards domestically. “The work done by the Aus- trians has contributed immensely to strengthening the reputation of the association globally.” A lovely compliment that also translates into practical benefits for all afficionados of fine dining. Not least since the annual JRE Country Guides also began recommending further addresses where the same brand of hospitality and culinary enjoyment can be expected. This reciprocal system of recommendations now functions wonderfully. Andreas Döllerer emphasizes: “I know of no other association where this works nearly as well.” right,” says President Richard Rauch, citing it as an essential criterion for joining JRE- Austria, alongside quality. “Close friendships have formed within the group, with some colleagues joining through friends.” That’s also how they want it to continue, “because all of us are chefs who are on the front lines in our establishments. Meaning we are able to discuss things more concretely and straightforwardly.” THE MOST INNOVATIVE MINDS IN GASTRONOMY Master distiller Hans Reisetbauer is fascinated by this “super collaboration of young and innovative chefs.” On a practical level, their products achieve broader distribution in the world of top gastronomy. Reisetbauer aims to “pass along the combination of knowledge and top products to the new generation, because quality creates friendships.” Outside of JRE establishments, when asked what the group represents in Austrian gastronomy, phrases like “the most innovative minds in gastronomy” quickly surface. Katja Zeidler, Brand Manager for the champagne brands Dom Pérignon and Krug, says Moët Hennessy shares JRE’s passion for epicurean enjoyment and refined hospitality. Which benefits all connoisseurs: “Together, we can create unforgettable culinary experiences for guests!” Indeed, the 43 JRE members are very much at the forefront of culinary excellence. “The reviews in recent editions of various restaurant guides were practically pageants honoring JRE,” says Richard Rauch. “JRE is also establishing itself as a seal of quality!” The appreciation of personal interactions, extending beyond professional collaboration, A must-attend event for epicureans, and a 20th-anniversary celebration certain to achieve legendary status: On Sunday, June 30, 2024, JRE-Austria will transform the grounds of fairytale Schloss Grafenegg, the Auditorium, and the venerable rooms of the former riding school from 11 AM to 8 PM into a fantastic gourmet world. 43 JRE chefs will prepare an equivalent number of small creations at 13 kitchen stations. Starting with a champagne aperitif at 11 AM, followed by a grand ceremony at 12:30 PM, a flying dinner at 1:30 PM, accompanied by countless winemakers and producers with tastings, a Davidoff cigar lounge, a Miele cooking studio, the Reisetbauer Gin Bar, all amid a party atmosphere with live music throughout the day. Price €250 at any JRE establishment or €350 at the door or through Ö-Ticket. Includes 43 courses, champagne aperitif, wine, water, beer, spirits, and coffee. Photo: Lisa Edi Photo: Jürgen Skarwan Photo: Joerg Lehmann » IT HAS DEVELOPED INTO A UNIQUE ASSOCIATION WITH COUNTLESS FRIENDSHIPS. THE MOST VALUABLE ASSETS ARE AN OPEN EXCHANGE OF IDEAS AND DIRECT PERSONAL CONNECTIONS. « Josef Floh, Charter Member of JRE-Austria How to become a JRE member: “We are looking for businesses that are diamonds in the rough: highly talented, yet just starting their careers,” says Richard Rauch, outlining the profile requirements. On a formal level, you must be under 40 years old at the time of admission. Additionally, a business must have been open for three years and meet the high JRE quality standards, verified by means of a “mystery check.” Ideally, applicants operate their own restaurant, as “corporate-run businesses” do not truly fit in with this association of independents. And then there’s the “human component,” says Rauch. Members vote on this too, because, at JRE-Austria, they see themselves as a group of friends with a shared passion: Serving the best, most honest cuisine in the country. For gourmets, there are definitely plenty of locations to discover: Currently, JRE members can be found in 16 countries, with around 400 restaurants in total. And the network continues to grow. “We don’t see ourselves as competitors, but rather as partners exchanging knowledge, just like in other industries,” say Sabrina and Katrin Steindl (Unterwirt, Ebbs). They have been part of the association since 2021. The sisters especially appreciate the cooperative nature of JRE and the sense of authenticity: “We inspire each other, meet on an equal footing, and help each other over many a stumbling block.” AMBITIOUS PLANS FOR THE FUTURE For Richard Rauch, it’s important “to keep the group of active members between 40 and 50 in the coming years.” After 20 years, many of the domestic JRE founders will transition to the status of “Membre d’Honneur” – moving to an advisory position within the group of chefs upon reaching the age of 50. “We’re also proactively looking for committed chefs and hosts,” says Rauch. Austria’s major role amongst the 15 European member countries (+ 1 establishment in Australia) is confirmed by international JRE President Daniel Lehmann: “Participation in the JRE family further strengthens Austria’s culinary profile, boosts tourism, and positions the country as an outstanding culinary destination within Europe.” In the opinion of this operator of the “Moosegg” restaurant in Bern, who has served on the international board for ten years, the sense of European unity has grown noticeably, “increasingly communicated as one single ‘family.’” The size of this family will be impressively demonstrated in April 2024 at the international “Homecoming” conference in Paris, marking the 50th anniversary of JRE’s founding. From an Austrian perspective, these festivities are also going to serve as the “warm-up” for numerous events and their own birthday gala, celebrated on June 30 in the Auditorium and park of Schloss Grafen- egg in Lower Austria. Certain to be legendary indeed. No one would expect anything less from JRE-Austria! For two decades, this elite, family-style collaboration has steadily raised expectations. Through the roof! » 43 MEMBERS – A UNIQUE JRE SUCCESS STORY, IN AUSTRIA AND EUROPE-WIDE. « Andreas Döllerer, Former President of JRE-Austria
5 SIGNATURE CHEFS He literally takes chefs out of their white, uniform jackets. His portraits, kept strictly in black and white, capture a brief moment of reflection, joy, tranquility, or candid interaction with the photographer. Lehmann, a luminary in food photography, has traversed the globe for over 30 years on assignments from leading industry publishers, covering food and drink. Initially a haute couture fashion photographer, he is now regarded as the photographic eye of haute cuisine. His impressive portfolio includes 101 highly successful cookbooks, notably for Alain Ducasse. Since 2013, Joerg Lehmann has been passionately connected to the Austrian JRE: “I’m especially impressed by the many family-run businesses where heart and tradition, respect and curiosity for the modern, are encapsulated in amazing dishes. There’s an incredibly exciting culinary world here, with a strong identity that is most definitely a recipe for success!” There are some dishes so perfect they become signature dishes, symbolizing restaurant and chef alike. Extraordinary creations by extraordinary personalities behind the stove. Joerg Lehmann, a star photographer based in Paris, Berlin, and Tokyo, now showcases the people behind such famous dishes in a sensitive photo series. Joerg Lehmann’s Art Project for the JRE Anniversary BACKSTAGE Josef Mühlmann Stefan Hueber Andreas Krainer Thomas Gruber
PASSION STORIES No. 2 6 WINE In the vineyards, the era of a patriarchy is long gone. From South Styria and Northern Burgenland to Kamptal, female winemakers are causing quite the stir with their wines. Now, one of the last bastions of male dominance is slowly but surely falling: Sommelières are on the rise in top establishments, doing stellar work, and debunking stereotypes in the process. Text: Wolfgang M. Gran They are passionate, open-minded, and ambitious. Their wines speak for themselves, garnering awards as quickly as their creators are liberating the wine world from old dogmas and prejudices. Female vintners from “Rosé Queen” Pia Strehn in Burgenland to Katharina Tinnacher in South Styria, and Birgit and Gloria Eichinger in Kamptal have shown that a more feminine wine world is a definite boon. Women in the vineyards are no longer an exotic sight in a male-dominated field, but rather a widely respected and acclaimed part of a refreshed, modernized profession. No Longer Just a Man’s World This momentum shift didn’t happen quite as quickly at the dining table. There was still some skepticism when a sommelier was requested and suddenly a woman showed up. Barbara Huber, owner and sommelière at Restaurant Esslokal in Hadersdorf am Kamp, recalls: “When I started out, the fine dining scene was still very male-dominated, and wine was strictly a man’s domain.” That said, it was women like Barbara Huber who played a crucial role in breaking down these stale structures: “That brought a lot of changes, and nowadays, it’s no longer automatically the man who selects the wine at the dinner table. Especially with younger guests, there’s essentially no distinction between man and woman, just a collective ‘we’.” Barbara Huber, Restaurant Esslokal Multiple award-winning: the wine cellar beneath the historic vaults of Kirchenwirt 1326. Photo: Michael Buchling Photo: Stefan Eder CHEF’S ROULETTE 2024 WED OCTOBER 2 Austria’s most original gourmet event returns. Over 30 top chefs will be cooking up a storm, not in their own kitchens, but rather those of their colleagues. Who’s cooking where will remain a tightly kept secret until the first courses are served. HOW DOES CHEF’S ROULETTE WORK? Guests book a table for this evening at one of the participating JRE restaurants, not knowing who will actually be cooking where. This mystery remains until the first courses are served, turning each dish into a canvas for guesses and predictions, adding an extra layer of excitement and making the night unforgettable. The experience is topped off with a selection of premium wines, with the added treat of some restaurants even having the winemakers themselves in attendance. Price for a 5-course menu including aperitif, wine pairing, mineral water, and coffee € 165,-. Advance table reservations at the desired restaurant are required. jre.at TIP: Chef’s Roulette also makes for a great gift!
PASSION STORIES No. 2 A sentiment fully shared by Hans-Jörg Unterrainer, chef and multiple award-winning sommelier at gourmet restaurant Kirchenwirt in Leogang: “In our profession, there are now many women who not only bring the necessary knowledge to the table, but also an acute sense of their guests’ epicurean wants, incorporating those into the wine pairings. Which is ultimately the key to an unforgettable culinary experience.” A Feel for Guests without ego playing a role 7 ACQUIRES A FEMININE TOUCH A More Sensitive Approach to the Winemaker’s Soul Better at Tasting and Smelling? And how does the male world respond to this female foray into their former domain? As a rule, every bit as relaxed as Maximilian Lucian, Wine Director at the Burg Vital Resort in Oberlech: “I wouldn’t make a big deal about gender when it comes to this topic, but it is fair to say one thing: The biggest problem amongst sommeliers is ego, and that’s rarely an issue with women. They tend to be more sensitive, empathetic, and more focused on the customer. That’s crucial because wines can significantly influence the dining experience for guests. And if you are able to enhance the meal well and set your ego aside, you can make an immense impact.” “We women might well have a different approach to wine. We may be more sensitive to the winemaker’s soul, and thus perceive and describe wine somewhat differently than men.” This is echoed by her colleague, Iris Vigne from the Pfefferschiff restaurant in Hallwang near Salzburg: “Women might have a better sense for wines when it comes to the finer details. And after decades of male dominance, men are now seeing that women are not only just as good, but in some respects, even better.” This assessment is also shared on the outside, as shown by the latest “Rolling Pin” rankings of the top 50 sommeliers in Austria, with seven women represented: Barbara Eselböck, Sonja Rauch, Stefanie Wiesner, Laura Frömel, Katharina Gnigler, Sindy Kretschmar, and Elisabeth Strömer. Sonja Rauch, a perennial star in these rankings, aptly points out that in this profession, being placed on a “best of” list doesn’t allow you to rest on your laurels: “You memorize a taste, but wine is a product that evolves a new sensory imprint every year. That said, taking wines seriously requires lifelong learning and growth, because this topic is never fully explored.” A trend that’s piquing a lot of interest. At the Rust Wine Academy, a thesis even tackled the question, “How Feminine is the Wine World?” In Germany, a documentary entitled “weinweiblich” (“wine-feminine”) was made for movie theaters. And globally, studies are examining whether women, due to different synaptic connections, are naturally better at smelling and tasting than men – making them more inherently suited for the role of sommelier. Indeed, research has shown that the proportion of women among so-called “supertasters” is higher. However, this doesn’t necessarily speak to their qualifications as wine experts. It’s more intriguing, for example, to listen to Monika Müller, who complements her husband Hannes’s award-winning cuisine as a sommelière at Geniesserhotel Die Forelle on Lake Weissensee: Maximilian Lucian, Griggeler Stuba at Burg Vital Resort Iris Vigne, Restaurant Pfefferschiff Monika Müller, Geniesserhotel Die Forelle Sonja Rauch, Restaurant Geschwister Rauch (Sommelière of the Year 2024 – Bertelsmann Publishing) Hans-Jörg Unterrainer, Kirchenwirt in Leogang since 1326 Photo: Michael Reidinger Photo: Lukas Kirchgasser Photo: Joerg Lehmann Photo: Joerg Lehmann Photo: Günter Standl Photo: standbild.at
PASSION STORIES No. 2 8 Oberafiesl lies nestled between broad forests and vast nothingness in the borderlands of the Mühlviertel, while the Styrian Almenland encircles St. Kathrein am Offenegg, and Mauterndorf reveals itself as a hidden gem in the Salzburger Lungau. Three marvelous places, each with a JRE restaurant of its own, each well worth discovering. MESNERHAUS ... in the mountains Maria and Josef Steffner don’t work as remotely as their colleagues in Afiesl and St. Kathrein. Since the completion of the Tauern Tunnel in 1975, even the Lungau region of Salzburg province isn’t cut off from the rest of the world anymore – also including the historic Mesnerhaus in Mauterndorf, which is run by the Steffners: “It is one of the most beautiful buildings in town,” Maria enthuses, “and it’s a gift to work here.” As for guests, it’s a real treat to savor the delights from Josef’s 4-toque kitchen, which Gault Millau once called “truly spectacular.” “We have so many wonderful ingredients right on our doorstep, it’s a joy to be creative,” says Josef, summarizing his approach in a nutshell. That said, the Lungau “Eachtling” (potato) might justifiably be plated side-by-side with caviar: “For me, it’s so important to incorporate typical regional ingredients.” A region, still consisting of so much untouched nature, that is also a biosphere park. The Steffners, too, find that more and more people are seeking naturalness – in the surroundings, on their plates, but also in their hosts: “Everything here is very personal, almost familial,” Maria shares. In that regard, small communities in the middle of nowhere are a treasure trove. Though that’s hardly fair to say about Mauterndorf. After all, when the cathedral chapter fled here from Napoleon in 1796, this small village was, albeit briefly, the capital of Salzburg itself. Hidden behind the romantic façade of the historic Mesnerhaus is modern art and a 4-toque kitchen, with enchanting accommodations right next door. On eyelevel with the treetops of the surrounding forests, the Wilder Eder sits enthroned at the most beautiful spot in St. Kathrein am Offenegg. Why come to Maria and Josef Steffner? Because for us, “arrive as our guest and leave as our friend” is far from an empty slogan. Where to stay? In our Mesnerhaus annex, where guests are greeted by six comfortable rooms and an exquisite junior suite. Maria & Josef Steffner Text: Wolfgang M. Gran Photo: Joerg Lehmann Photo: Joerg Lehmann Photo: Joerg Lehmann OASIS IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE
PASSION STORIES No. 2 9 Photo: Genießerhotel Bergergut BERGERGUT ... in the border country There’s something to the saying that you occasionally need to travel far to truly appreciate the beauty of home. Eva-Maria Pürmayer, who runs “adults only” Geniesserhotel Bergergut in Oberafiesl, in the sleepy Mühlviertel region, felt the same. Her journey took her from the USA to New Zealand to Tanzania before returning home with a broadened horizon and unbridled enthusiasm. Her life partner, Thomas Hofer, who moved from Linz to this small village on the Czech border, made his own contribution to their success. He added three Gault&Millau toques to their creatively regional, yet unpretentious cuisine, and offers cooking classes and breadbaking workshops that are fully booked far in advance. A power couple, EvaMaria no longer sees the remoteness of this location as a disadvantage: “It has turned around completely. What first seemed like an obstacle, is now a clear advantage. People are increasingly looking for this kind of authentic setting amid pure nature.” However, winning over guests is still vital, since casual visitors rarely just wander into Afiesl by chance: “I believe that in remote spots such as this, it’s often the more committed people who are busily at work. We have to try three times as hard as someone whose guests just stumble through the door.” Guests appreciate their efforts because the hosting duo successfully lives up to their motto: “We want to enrich people’s lives.” IT’S AS BEAUTIFUL AS IT GETS Three toques light up the culinary sky above St. Kathrein, complemented by the fine spirits produced at the Almenland distillery. But before reaching for that glass of schnapps, you should definitely have dined at the “Wilder Eder” first. There, Eveline Wild and Stefan Eder live out their vision of “regional global” cuisine. And they do so so skillfully and delicately that their place in the “middle of nowhere” has long since become a gathering spot for well-traveled gourmets: “At first, I felt disadvantaged by this location, since practically no one comes here by chance,” Stefan Eder reflects, “but having to reach out for every single guest can also become a recipe for success in its own right.” Until the early 1950s, this 1,063-resident community on the eastern edge of the Passail basin in the Styrian Almenland region wasn't even accessible by car. And even today, as Stefan Eder notes, getting there “can be an adventure per se”: “You have to want to consciously find us, and be prepared for a culinary expedition.” But once there, it feels “like coming home,” says the top chef: “It takes less than half an hour for our guests to shed the cares of everyday life.” This sense of relaxation jives wonderfully with Stefan Eder’s cuisine, which is intended to be a holistic feel-good experience: “Culinary creations are like music to me,” he says. Meanwhile, his beloved Eveline Wild is responsible for the sweet touches, a multiple pastry world champion and TV chef. Those legendary pralines as well as her cakes and desserts are to die for. The closeness that connects this culinary dream team in private, however, is deliberately avoided professionally: “We have separate kitchens – which does wonders for our relationship,” Stefan says with a sly grin. And that, in turn, is marvelous for the guests. THE WILDER EDER ... in the silent Almenland A tranquil refuge in the Mühlviertel hill country – how beautiful “the middle of nowhere” can be. Photo: Rene Strasser Photo: Wolfgang Hummer Why come to Eveline Wild and Stefan Eder? Because a visit to us becomes a wild, romantic culinary journey from “savory to sweet.” Where to stay? In one of our hotel rooms ranging from “small-yet-exquisite” to a junior suite, or in the former hayshed now beautifully transformed into a rustic chalet. Eveline Wild & Stefan Eder Why come to Eva-Maria Pürmayer and Thomas Hofer? Because with us, be it dining or our accommodations, you can clearly sense our passion and attention to every detail. Where to stay? In one of our 35 ultra-cozy rooms or a suite. Starting in 2024, we will also offer six so-called “Tiny Houses” built on stilts. Eva-Maria Pürmayer & Thomas Hofer Photo: Genießerhotel Bergergut
PASSION STORIES No. 2 Farmer & Chef – a partnership of equals. Wishful thinking or reality? An increasing number of farmers and chefs are passionately engaged in close collaborations. JRE establishments, above all, showcase how perfectly this can work. 10 Lake Weissensee in Carinthia is enchanting in every season. Anyone who swims in it during summer or seemingly glides over its smooth-as-a-mirror ice in winter knows the lake’s magic personally. The collaboration between chefs and farmers here is just as idyllic. In theory, these cooperations might serve as textbook examples in the first semester of sociology studies. But at Weissensee, they’re a reality. Specifically, the event series “Farmer & Chef” is considered a model of excellence. Its initiator is Hannes Müller from Geniesserhotel Die Forelle. A top-notch chef, Müller also understands the challenges of modern, sustainable farming – he runs a small sheep farm along with his hotel and restaurant. That said, he is personally well-versed in the ins-and-outs of both professions – and the relationships between them, which aren’t always easy. All too often, chefs may bask in the spotlight while still opting to resource products wholesale, leaving the people behind the produce in anonymity. Yet, farmers aren’t barcodes. They have names like Eva, Ottmar, or Fritz. And they deserve a stage too. Müller pulls back the curtain. “Without farmers, our culinary achieve- ments wouldn’t be possible. And those farmers often go unseen. We want to change that. So that consumers become more grateful for the food and more appreciative for the people behind it,” says Müller. Five years ago, he kickstarted the Farmer & Chef event, inviting both groups of key players to participate. Text: Philipp Braun Photos: Joerg Lehmann Jeremias Riezler & Jodok Fritz Roman Pichler & Eva Nuart serving a meat broth in a cow horn,” he says. It is this appreciation that drives them both – working as equals and maintaining a partnership of trust. Like a stone thrown into Lake Weissensee creating ripples, Hannes Müller’s initiative spread first throughout the region, then across all of Austria. For instance, to the westernmost corner – Vorarlberg. NOSE-TO-TAIL NOT JUST A HOLLOW SLOGAN It’s always about knowing where and from whom my food comes. I trust a farmer I know personally more than a wholesaler,” says Jeremias Riezler from Kleinwalsertal. Owner of the Walserstuba in Riezlern, recently honored in the 2024 Guide Gault Millau for his sustainable “green” cuisine, has elevated Alpine culinary artistry to a whole new level and honors his farmers daily. Jodok Fritz is one of them. A competitive skier, he took over the family farm this year. He likes to compare the work of farmers with that of chefs and professional athletes. “It’s all about hard work. You need to have a goal in sight and see the bigger picture. As a farmer, I can’t just focus on a single cow that yields the most profit. Similarly, as an athlete, training only for short-term success gets you nowhere. As a chef, you need to be versatile and think bigger,” says Fritz. For Fritz, it’s also important not to reduce animals to mere schnitzels and fillets, but to make use of everything. “Jeremias even uses the horns of our cattle, storing spices in them or FARMER & CHEF Photo: Oliver Farys “
PASSION STORIES No. 2 HANDSHAKE RELATIONSHIPS AS THE BASIS OF COOPERATION Farmers and chefs both desire this kind of personal relationship. “Close collaboration is enjoyable. It’s all about face-to-face interactions and building personal trust. As chefs, we learn and evolve. The farmers inspire us,” believes Vitus Winkler from the Sonnhof in St. Veit in Pongau. His trusted fisherman is Ottmar Rainer from Pfarrwerfen. Since 1997, the Salzburg native has been raising trout and char, supplying private customers and restaurants, 11 A MATTER OF RESPECT Just 50 kilometers from Kleinwalsertal, in Tannheimertal valley, lies the Müller family’s Sonnenhof. Another example of a successful partnership and the realization of the “nose- to-tail” philosophy, which for chef Patrick Müller is a fundamental principle. “He takes the whole calf and uses it entirely. Plus, everything stays local. Long transport distances are eliminated,” says Gerhard Müller, who runs a farm with grassland, calves, and Cameroon sheep. Gerhard Müller & Patrick Müller Fresh goat cheese with wild herb salad Smokey Garden (trout smoked in hay, oxymel, meadow flowers) Vitus Winkler & Ottmar Rainer The sustainability aspect is repeatedly emphasized and brought to life. For Patrick Müller, one thing is non-negotiable: “Quality only exists in conjunction with sustainability. It works when you support local farmers consistently.” In this particular case, it has already been for a remarkable 18 years. never giving a thought to wholesale. “I simply don’t do that. In wholesale, you can immediately tell there are factories involved. We are able to deliver constant quality on a daily basis and cater to the needs of chefs.” Rainer dedicates his energy entirely to fish farming. “We do it properly, and that suffices for us. We can’t and don’t want to do more,” he says, allowing chefs to work their own magic with the fish later. Rural businesses are much more than mere producers. They are part of a network and a source of ideas for chefs. In fact, they are practically co-restaurateurs. “The collaboration and networking is fantastic. JRE chefs ask me what’s available and develop their dishes accordingly. It’s a different approach than creating a dish first and then seeing where I can get the ingredients,” says organic farmer Eva Nuart. Her parents searched for a different form of direct marketing and were never your typical marketplace vendors. Gastronomes quickly recognized the wonderful cheese produced here and how they implemented circular agriculture. Whey from the cheese is fed to their pigs. The Nuarts refine and market sheep’s milk and meat because the one can’t exist without the other. A cow, sheep, or goat isn’t just a faucet that flows constantly. “To produce cheese, you have to make sacrifices. And also slaughter,” says Nuart. She is grateful for the exchange with chefs like Roman Pichler. “He understands that there’s no milk without meat. We discuss things, support each other. That’s really cool, making our work even more enjoyable.” The owner of Restaurant Moritz regularly stops by the farm. Partly out of necessity to purchase quality ingredients for his business, but also to maintain personal contact. “Obviously, it’s easier to order over the phone from a wholesaler. But that’s not sustainable. I’d rather go to the farm in person, chat, maybe have a glass of wine, and get ideas on how I can do something differently, and better. It’s like meeting up with friends!” Photo: Petr Blaha
PASSION STORIES No. 2 12 NET- WORK Whether at home or around the globe, few other industries open up such diverse opportunities for personal dream careers like gastronomy does. And the Jeunes Restaurateurs serve as the perfect springboard. Text: Wolfgang Maria Gran An association of 400 restaurants in 16 countries pursuing the same goal is extraordinary in its own right. Especially when it manages to inspire a multitude of gifted individualists with a motto that doesn’t stroke egos, but rather spreads a vision: Sharing and promoting talents and passions. JRE chefs and establishments don’t just train young people; they strive to pass on something that Roman Pichler from the “Moritz” in Grafenstein, Carinthia, puts in a nutshell beautifully: “The chef is an explorer, the farmer an inventor, and an artist – when these elements come together, you can immediately taste and feel the spirit behind every dish.” If there’s such a thing as a JRE secret to success, it would be that exchange, inspiration, and solidarity have replaced secrecy, envy, and competitive thinking. The JRE take immense pride whenever the young people they have trained rise as new stars in the culinary sky. This attitude comes from experience and maturity and has a lot to do with a broad horizon. Developing and fostering that horizon is a major focus of Jeunes Restaurateurs. For young people passionate about gastronomy, those three letters JRE thus represent a tremendous opportunity for their own professional growth. Fortunately, word of this has already got around. The “Masterclass in Culinary Arts” created by former JRE President Andreas Döllerer at the Tourism School in Bad Hofgastein is a true success story. A 3-year course of study highlighted by practical experience with JRE chefs, and concluding with certification as a chef, restaurant manager, or a hotel and hospitality assistant. The eighth iteration begins in autumn 2024, for more info visit: ts-badhofgastein.at True apprenticeship training, i.e., the imparting of extensive knowledge and practical skills, is important to all JRE members. Both traditional apprenticeships after a basic school education as well as unusual career paths are possible. An apprenticeship simultaneously leading to a high school diploma is likewise a welcome, new trend. And when Hannes Müller at Die Forelle has an IT professional, or, in the case of Josef Floh in Langenlebarn, a long-time graphic designer, starting their cooking apprenticeship later in life, that can only be seen as a compliment to JRE. Masterclass and top apprentices THE NEXT GENERATION The annual JRE Service Day for hospitality employees, featuring lectures, discussions, tastings, and networking – also with a dash of party vibe – at various top Austrian vineyards, is a gesture of appreciation and team spirit. Pictured here at Weingut Bründlmayer. The best training for a fulfilling future: A full apprenticeship at a JRE restaurant is just one of several ways to launch a successful career. Photo: Anna Stöcher Photo: Mark Stickler
PASSION STORIES No. 2 13 NEWS Triad Guesthouse Gourmet Restaurant Hubert Wallner Hall of Fame Kolms Lodges Artis by Philipp Dyczek Mühltalhof It’s slowly becoming a cherished annual tradition for a JRE to garner the “Chef of the Year” title. In 2024, it is Vitus Winkler (Sonnhof) who has been honored by Bertelsmann Publishing, and not just for his cooking virtuosity with herbs. Additionally, there were two other awards: Sonja Rauch (Geschwister Rauch) as “Sommelière of the Year,” whilst Melanie and Jürgen Csencsits celebrated their establishment being named “Inn of the Year.” Jaimy Reisinger, named “Pastry Chef of the Year 2023” by Rolling Pin, now guarantees one of the most creative dessert experiences on Wörthersee, offering menu finales that aren’t always sweet, sometimes even venturing into savory nuances. Christoph Gusenleitner, as the new Head Sommelier, ensures perfect wine pairings. hubertwallner.com Good news for foodies in Graz: A contemplated relocation is now literally off the table, with the creative master of global flavors and nuances deciding to remain in his downtown restaurant. As a consequence, this UNESCO World Heritage city continues to feature one of Styria's most unique gourmet restaurants. restaurant-artis.com As of June 1, a very, very cozy new reason for a trip to the Bucklige Welt region: Veronika and Uwe Machreich have further enhanced their restaurant with the addition of 6 guest rooms (26 sqm from €115 per person) including private garden area. All featuring solid woods and local craftsmanship. The popular “Bed in the Meadow” rooms are still there, naturally, as is the inn-style atmosphere of the gourmet restaurant. triad-machreich.at Additions to the Roon Lodges on the Bärentrail hiking path in the Waldviertel, Lower Austria. The two new chalets out in the meadows are larger and more comfortable still, even boasting their own sauna. kolm.restaurant FUTURE Even for established chefs, the JRE world regularly makes unforgettable experiences possible: like cooking for VIP guests at a luxury hotel in the Maldives, or conjuring up culinary wonders in a penthouse pop-up at a bank in downtown Milan. Whether as the star guest at a legendary pasta press event near Naples, or like Klemens Schraml from “Rau,” presenting a “Sea & Forest” plate amidst the French culinary elite on the Atlantic coast, to name just a few. Such moments remain lifelong jewels in that treasure chest of fondest memories. Memories for chefs Lukas Kienbauer, Schärding (Lukas Restaurant) “Our greatest strengths definitely include passion, uncompromising quality and, last but not least, the individuality of each establishment, all linked through this incredibly broad network spanning the entire world!” Photo: Aixpix Photo: Tobi Rudig Photo: Günter Standl Photo: Iris Milisits Photo: Joerg Lehmann Photo: Bastian Knapp Photo: Tschinkersten Fotografie Photo: Manfred Lang Photo: Baumeister Gutstein Photo: R. Patti Photo: T. Gruber Vitus Winkler Melanie & Jürgen Csencsits After rocking the “Inn Lab” of “European Capital of Culture Bad Ischl & Salzkammergut” at the start of the year, Philip Rachinger continues to make waves in the Mühlviertel with his guest chef appearances and original pop-ups. And since the majority takeover in 2024, now officially as restaurant owner. The “Ois” restaurant remains amongst Austria’s most creative and simultaneously deeply rooted cuisines, freshly joined by Gregor Bernsteiner as sous-chef and Anton Karlhuber, contributing his wine expertise alongside Daniel Schicker. muehltalhof.at
14 APRIL April 1 SCHLOSSKELLER SOUTH STYRIA Gourmet brunch, with additional Sunday dates: May 12, Jun 2, Jul 7, Aug 4, Sept 1, Oct 6, Nov 3, and Dec 1. April 4, HERZIG 4 Hands Dinner with guest chef JRE Hannes Müller (Die Forelle). April 4–7, STYRIAN SPRING AT THE VIENNA RATHAUSPLATZ Featuring STK vintners and JRE chefs Max Leo- dolter and Richard Rauch, steiermark.com. April 4–14, SCHLOSSKELLER SOUTH STYRIA meets Croatia April 13, LANDHAUS BACHER Wachau Gourmet Festival “Weingut Hirtzberger Evening”: 6-course menu with wines from 2002 to 2017 (magnum and double magnum). April 15, LANDHAUS BACHER Wachau Gourmet Festival “Dorfer & Friends” with 3-star chef Jean-Philippe Blondet (Restaurant Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester in London). April 18, HERZIG 4 Hands Dinner with Sandra Scheidl (Culinary meets Art). April 18, FORTHUBER With a pop-up tasting menu from the Mauerkirchen vocational school. April 19, GESCHWISTER RAUCH Special 4 Hands Dinner with Germany’s 2-star and 5-toque TV chef Christoph Rüffler. April 19–20 G+G GANNERHOF & GSELLMANN JRE Josef Mühlmann (Der Gannerhof) guestchefs at Andreas Gsellmann’s winery in Gols, gsellmann.at. April 26, DER WILDE EDER JRE gourmet evening with a surprise chef. April 29, JRE Golf Tournament Adamstal Halfway & Menu – all Lower Austrian JRE chefs cooking at adamstal.at. April 30, CSENCSITS 4 Hands Dinner with guest chef JRE Sören Herzig (Restaurant Herzig) and a reading by Martin Weinek. MAY May 14, SONNENHOF Wine & Dine: Gourmet dinner with Italy’s iconic Castello di Ama winery. May 25, RAU BY KLEMENS SCHRAML Gourmet brunch during a raft ride on the River Enns, part of the culinary festival tavolta.at. May 30 and 31 RAU BY KLEMENS SCHRAML Taste of the Wild, unplugged dinner at the Bergerwieshütte in Kalkalpen National Park, part of the culinary festival tavolta.at. JUNE June 6, LUKAS KAPELLER & RAU BY KLEMENS SCHRAML “Romance and Culinary Delights in the Glasshouse”: An evening for all the senses with both JRE chefs amidst a floral paradise, part of the culinary festival tavolta.at. June 8, MESNERHAUS Celebrating its 17th birthday: culinary enjoyment and festivities with the Steffner family. June 9, SUMMER GETAWAY ON HELDENPLATZ IN VIENNA In cooperation with Upper Austria Tourism and Genussland Upper Austria, featuring JRE chefs from Upper Austria, guest chef JRE Sören Herzig, and Sommelière of the Year Helena Jordan. June 11, WALSERSTUBA JRE & the next generation: Culinary celebration in 6 courses in cooperation with GASCHT – School for Hosts in Tourism Professions. June 12, HERZIG 4 Hands Dinner with guest chef JRE Jürgen Csencsits (Gasthaus Csencsits) and a reading by Martin Weinek. June 14, GUMPOLDSKIRCHEN REBKLANG Concerts, wine, and culinary delights at Schloss Gumpoldskirchen with JRE Josef Mühlmann (Der Gannerhof), rebklang.at. June 14-30, PFEFFERSCHIFF Cellar Expedition in Gedersdorf (near Krems) in the pop-up gourmet wine tavern of this Salzburg-based, star-awarded restaurant. June 16, GESCHWISTER RAUCH 25th anniversary celebration – A culinary highlight in the Styrian Vulkanland region with 20 guest chefs and vintners, plus a musical live act. June 20, BERGERGUT Gourmet event part of Sunivent with host Thomas Hofer and his JRE colleagues Lukas Kienbauer and Clemens Grabmer. June 23, WALDSCHÄNKE Garden of Epicurean Delights: Winemakers and producers make a guest appearance in the romantic garden, with live music and dance. June 27 to August 29, Döllerer Art & Culinary, Golling Festival: Celebrating the 25th anniversary of the festival with a star-studded lineup from the music and theater scene, including 5 “Jedermann” stars, in combination with gourmet and inn-style dishes from JRE Andreas Döllerer’s 5-toque kitchen. 21 events in total, festspielegolling.at. JULY July 5, ALPIN Midsummer Night’s Festival celebrating the 25th anniversary with live music, flying buffet, and winemakers in attendance. July 21, WALDSCHÄNKE Traditional garden party. July 27, HERZIG Summer Fest with guest JRE chefs, a standing party on the rooftop terrace with live cooking, culinary stands, wines, cocktails, and a view of Schönbrunn Palace. Second date: August 3. AUGUST August 5 SONNHOF BY VITUS WINKLER JRE 4 Hands President’s Dinner with guest chef Richard Rauch. August 13 TRIAD & MOLZBACHHOF A Tuesday in the Vienna Alps: 2 JRE chefs, 2 locations, 20 courses. 20 guests enjoy 10 courses at each of the two restaurants, then switch via shuttle bus: guests move from Triad to Molzbachhof, and from Molzbachhof to Triad, where again 10 courses are served. Overnight stays possible. August 31 SONNHOF BY VITUS WINKLER “Open House” with a 5-course menu and gourmet dessert buffet in Vitus’s kitchen turned party zone. SEPTEMBER Dates TBA, DAS TRAUNSEE FELIX da Capo: Several gourmet events as a fall follow-up to the inn festival, marking the stylish redesign of the Post am See with a new culinary concept by JRE Lukas Nagl. September 26, BERGERGUT Voigas French: French-inspired gourmet gala menu by Thomas Hofer with deluxe French wine pairings. OCTOBER October 7, DIE FORELLE Farmer & Chef: Local farms present their products and top chefs create small, exquisite specialties from them. October 19, WALSERSTUBA Max Stiegl makes a guest appearance: Celebration of pork with a Black Alpine pig from their own breeding line “Elvis Lives”. NOVEMBER November 9, RIEDERALM JRE Autumn Friends: An extraordinary culinary evening with JRE Andreas Krainer, Martin Klein (Ikarus/Hangar 7), Mario and Paul Lohninger (Lohninger Frankfurt), and Salvino Benanti (Benanti Winery, Viagrande, Italy). FACEBOOK INSTAGRAM Life is a celebration, especially in this anniversary year. Here is a brief selection of events that are not to be missed. JRE EVENTS 2024 WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2024 JRE BIRTHDAY FESTIVAL AT SCHLOSS GRAFENEGG In celebration of its 20th anniversary, JRE Austria will transform the park of enchanting Schloss Grafenegg in Lower Austria, along with its Auditorium and the venerable halls of the former riding school, into a magnificent gourmet world from 11 am to 8 pm. 43 JRE chefs will be on site, preparing the same number of unique small dishes across 13 kitchen stations. Champagne aperitif, ceremony, flying dinner, marketplace featuring wines and gourmet tidbits, Miele cooking studio, Reisetbauer Gin Bar, Davidoff Cigar Lounge, and music throughout the day. Admission is €250 per person when purchased through any JRE establishment, or €350 at the event entrance or via Ö-Ticket, incl. 43 dishes, champagne aperitif, wine, water, beer, spirits, and coffee. SUNDAY, 2024 JUNE 30, JRE CHEF’S ROULETTE More than 30 JRE chefs across Austria switch restaurants for one evening. Who is cooking where remains a secret until the second course. Reservations at all participating locations. jre.at Gain access to our “members-only” area and never miss out on news from the upscale culinary scene. Register for JREInside+ and start enjoying the benefits immediately. UNTIL 2024 MARCH 24 JRE GOURMET WEEKS A delightful spring kickoff at 27 JRE restaurants with 3-course menus for €65 (at 5- and 4-toque restaurants) or €50 (at 3- and 2-toque restaurants). Available only with prior reservation at all participating locations. Be sure to mention “JRE-Gourmet Weeks”. jre.at Photo: Joerg Lehmann All dates are subject to change. Please confirm directly with the venues themselves when planning and booking your trips. Not all events were finalized at the time of going to press, and in some cases the precise details are missing. That said, we suggest signing up for the JRE newsletter (max. once a week), and follow us on Instagram or Facebook to ensure you don’t miss out on a single thing. Subscribe at jre.eu
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