PASSION STORIES No. 2 HANDSHAKE RELATIONSHIPS AS THE BASIS OF COOPERATION Farmers and chefs both desire this kind of personal relationship. “Close collaboration is enjoyable. It’s all about face-to-face interactions and building personal trust. As chefs, we learn and evolve. The farmers inspire us,” believes Vitus Winkler from the Sonnhof in St. Veit in Pongau. His trusted fisherman is Ottmar Rainer from Pfarrwerfen. Since 1997, the Salzburg native has been raising trout and char, supplying private customers and restaurants, 11 A MATTER OF RESPECT Just 50 kilometers from Kleinwalsertal, in Tannheimertal valley, lies the Müller family’s Sonnenhof. Another example of a successful partnership and the realization of the “nose- to-tail” philosophy, which for chef Patrick Müller is a fundamental principle. “He takes the whole calf and uses it entirely. Plus, everything stays local. Long transport distances are eliminated,” says Gerhard Müller, who runs a farm with grassland, calves, and Cameroon sheep. Gerhard Müller & Patrick Müller Fresh goat cheese with wild herb salad Smokey Garden (trout smoked in hay, oxymel, meadow flowers) Vitus Winkler & Ottmar Rainer The sustainability aspect is repeatedly emphasized and brought to life. For Patrick Müller, one thing is non-negotiable: “Quality only exists in conjunction with sustainability. It works when you support local farmers consistently.” In this particular case, it has already been for a remarkable 18 years. never giving a thought to wholesale. “I simply don’t do that. In wholesale, you can immediately tell there are factories involved. We are able to deliver constant quality on a daily basis and cater to the needs of chefs.” Rainer dedicates his energy entirely to fish farming. “We do it properly, and that suffices for us. We can’t and don’t want to do more,” he says, allowing chefs to work their own magic with the fish later. Rural businesses are much more than mere producers. They are part of a network and a source of ideas for chefs. In fact, they are practically co-restaurateurs. “The collaboration and networking is fantastic. JRE chefs ask me what’s available and develop their dishes accordingly. It’s a different approach than creating a dish first and then seeing where I can get the ingredients,” says organic farmer Eva Nuart. Her parents searched for a different form of direct marketing and were never your typical marketplace vendors. Gastronomes quickly recognized the wonderful cheese produced here and how they implemented circular agriculture. Whey from the cheese is fed to their pigs. The Nuarts refine and market sheep’s milk and meat because the one can’t exist without the other. A cow, sheep, or goat isn’t just a faucet that flows constantly. “To produce cheese, you have to make sacrifices. And also slaughter,” says Nuart. She is grateful for the exchange with chefs like Roman Pichler. “He understands that there’s no milk without meat. We discuss things, support each other. That’s really cool, making our work even more enjoyable.” The owner of Restaurant Moritz regularly stops by the farm. Partly out of necessity to purchase quality ingredients for his business, but also to maintain personal contact. “Obviously, it’s easier to order over the phone from a wholesaler. But that’s not sustainable. I’d rather go to the farm in person, chat, maybe have a glass of wine, and get ideas on how I can do something differently, and better. It’s like meeting up with friends!” Photo: Petr Blaha
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