PASSION STORIES No. 2 6 WINE In the vineyards, the era of a patriarchy is long gone. From South Styria and Northern Burgenland to Kamptal, female winemakers are causing quite the stir with their wines. Now, one of the last bastions of male dominance is slowly but surely falling: Sommelières are on the rise in top establishments, doing stellar work, and debunking stereotypes in the process. Text: Wolfgang M. Gran They are passionate, open-minded, and ambitious. Their wines speak for themselves, garnering awards as quickly as their creators are liberating the wine world from old dogmas and prejudices. Female vintners from “Rosé Queen” Pia Strehn in Burgenland to Katharina Tinnacher in South Styria, and Birgit and Gloria Eichinger in Kamptal have shown that a more feminine wine world is a definite boon. Women in the vineyards are no longer an exotic sight in a male-dominated field, but rather a widely respected and acclaimed part of a refreshed, modernized profession. No Longer Just a Man’s World This momentum shift didn’t happen quite as quickly at the dining table. There was still some skepticism when a sommelier was requested and suddenly a woman showed up. Barbara Huber, owner and sommelière at Restaurant Esslokal in Hadersdorf am Kamp, recalls: “When I started out, the fine dining scene was still very male-dominated, and wine was strictly a man’s domain.” That said, it was women like Barbara Huber who played a crucial role in breaking down these stale structures: “That brought a lot of changes, and nowadays, it’s no longer automatically the man who selects the wine at the dinner table. Especially with younger guests, there’s essentially no distinction between man and woman, just a collective ‘we’.” Barbara Huber, Restaurant Esslokal Multiple award-winning: the wine cellar beneath the historic vaults of Kirchenwirt 1326. Photo: Michael Buchling Photo: Stefan Eder CHEF’S ROULETTE 2024 WED OCTOBER 2 Austria’s most original gourmet event returns. Over 30 top chefs will be cooking up a storm, not in their own kitchens, but rather those of their colleagues. Who’s cooking where will remain a tightly kept secret until the first courses are served. HOW DOES CHEF’S ROULETTE WORK? Guests book a table for this evening at one of the participating JRE restaurants, not knowing who will actually be cooking where. This mystery remains until the first courses are served, turning each dish into a canvas for guesses and predictions, adding an extra layer of excitement and making the night unforgettable. The experience is topped off with a selection of premium wines, with the added treat of some restaurants even having the winemakers themselves in attendance. Price for a 5-course menu including aperitif, wine pairing, mineral water, and coffee € 165,-. Advance table reservations at the desired restaurant are required. jre.at TIP: Chef’s Roulette also makes for a great gift!
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