PASSION STORIES No. 2 A sentiment fully shared by Hans-Jörg Unterrainer, chef and multiple award-winning sommelier at gourmet restaurant Kirchenwirt in Leogang: “In our profession, there are now many women who not only bring the necessary knowledge to the table, but also an acute sense of their guests’ epicurean wants, incorporating those into the wine pairings. Which is ultimately the key to an unforgettable culinary experience.” A Feel for Guests without ego playing a role 7 ACQUIRES A FEMININE TOUCH A More Sensitive Approach to the Winemaker’s Soul Better at Tasting and Smelling? And how does the male world respond to this female foray into their former domain? As a rule, every bit as relaxed as Maximilian Lucian, Wine Director at the Burg Vital Resort in Oberlech: “I wouldn’t make a big deal about gender when it comes to this topic, but it is fair to say one thing: The biggest problem amongst sommeliers is ego, and that’s rarely an issue with women. They tend to be more sensitive, empathetic, and more focused on the customer. That’s crucial because wines can significantly influence the dining experience for guests. And if you are able to enhance the meal well and set your ego aside, you can make an immense impact.” “We women might well have a different approach to wine. We may be more sensitive to the winemaker’s soul, and thus perceive and describe wine somewhat differently than men.” This is echoed by her colleague, Iris Vigne from the Pfefferschiff restaurant in Hallwang near Salzburg: “Women might have a better sense for wines when it comes to the finer details. And after decades of male dominance, men are now seeing that women are not only just as good, but in some respects, even better.” This assessment is also shared on the outside, as shown by the latest “Rolling Pin” rankings of the top 50 sommeliers in Austria, with seven women represented: Barbara Eselböck, Sonja Rauch, Stefanie Wiesner, Laura Frömel, Katharina Gnigler, Sindy Kretschmar, and Elisabeth Strömer. Sonja Rauch, a perennial star in these rankings, aptly points out that in this profession, being placed on a “best of” list doesn’t allow you to rest on your laurels: “You memorize a taste, but wine is a product that evolves a new sensory imprint every year. That said, taking wines seriously requires lifelong learning and growth, because this topic is never fully explored.” A trend that’s piquing a lot of interest. At the Rust Wine Academy, a thesis even tackled the question, “How Feminine is the Wine World?” In Germany, a documentary entitled “weinweiblich” (“wine-feminine”) was made for movie theaters. And globally, studies are examining whether women, due to different synaptic connections, are naturally better at smelling and tasting than men – making them more inherently suited for the role of sommelier. Indeed, research has shown that the proportion of women among so-called “supertasters” is higher. However, this doesn’t necessarily speak to their qualifications as wine experts. It’s more intriguing, for example, to listen to Monika Müller, who complements her husband Hannes’s award-winning cuisine as a sommelière at Geniesserhotel Die Forelle on Lake Weissensee: Maximilian Lucian, Griggeler Stuba at Burg Vital Resort Iris Vigne, Restaurant Pfefferschiff Monika Müller, Geniesserhotel Die Forelle Sonja Rauch, Restaurant Geschwister Rauch (Sommelière of the Year 2024 – Bertelsmann Publishing) Hans-Jörg Unterrainer, Kirchenwirt in Leogang since 1326 Photo: Michael Reidinger Photo: Lukas Kirchgasser Photo: Joerg Lehmann Photo: Joerg Lehmann Photo: Günter Standl Photo: standbild.at
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