PASSION STORIES No. 2 8 Oberafiesl lies nestled between broad forests and vast nothingness in the borderlands of the Mühlviertel, while the Styrian Almenland encircles St. Kathrein am Offenegg, and Mauterndorf reveals itself as a hidden gem in the Salzburger Lungau. Three marvelous places, each with a JRE restaurant of its own, each well worth discovering. MESNERHAUS ... in the mountains Maria and Josef Steffner don’t work as remotely as their colleagues in Afiesl and St. Kathrein. Since the completion of the Tauern Tunnel in 1975, even the Lungau region of Salzburg province isn’t cut off from the rest of the world anymore – also including the historic Mesnerhaus in Mauterndorf, which is run by the Steffners: “It is one of the most beautiful buildings in town,” Maria enthuses, “and it’s a gift to work here.” As for guests, it’s a real treat to savor the delights from Josef’s 4-toque kitchen, which Gault Millau once called “truly spectacular.” “We have so many wonderful ingredients right on our doorstep, it’s a joy to be creative,” says Josef, summarizing his approach in a nutshell. That said, the Lungau “Eachtling” (potato) might justifiably be plated side-by-side with caviar: “For me, it’s so important to incorporate typical regional ingredients.” A region, still consisting of so much untouched nature, that is also a biosphere park. The Steffners, too, find that more and more people are seeking naturalness – in the surroundings, on their plates, but also in their hosts: “Everything here is very personal, almost familial,” Maria shares. In that regard, small communities in the middle of nowhere are a treasure trove. Though that’s hardly fair to say about Mauterndorf. After all, when the cathedral chapter fled here from Napoleon in 1796, this small village was, albeit briefly, the capital of Salzburg itself. Hidden behind the romantic façade of the historic Mesnerhaus is modern art and a 4-toque kitchen, with enchanting accommodations right next door. On eyelevel with the treetops of the surrounding forests, the Wilder Eder sits enthroned at the most beautiful spot in St. Kathrein am Offenegg. Why come to Maria and Josef Steffner? Because for us, “arrive as our guest and leave as our friend” is far from an empty slogan. Where to stay? In our Mesnerhaus annex, where guests are greeted by six comfortable rooms and an exquisite junior suite. Maria & Josef Steffner Text: Wolfgang M. Gran Photo: Joerg Lehmann Photo: Joerg Lehmann Photo: Joerg Lehmann OASIS IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE
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